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According to Andrea and Let's Go Greece, This is the second most holy place in Greece, next to the church in Tinos where people crawl on their hands and knees up the steps to Want a cool girl in Mitilini holy icon of the Panagia. On the first of August the pilgrims begin to arrive here, camping on the road that leads to the Want a cool girl in Mitilini church in the center of town.

Today is only the sixth and driving through the tiny steeply-inclined streets, already full of people, is horrifying. The first miracle of the season is that I don't run over anyone.

The roads are narrow and at such a sharp incline that I have to keep a delicate balance bewteen the brake and the gas since I must stop frequently for pedestrians. We park the car at the top of the village where Andrea's cousins Sophia and Anna live with their Grandmother Sophia.

They are ecstatic to see us and especially happy to see Amarandi with whom they play for hours until they become exhausted and leave her with us. We have a wonderful lunch of the largest pink snapper I had ever seen. Andrea's cousin Yacovah is the Bishop of Mytilini and he is in town for the festivities. This spring he had gone to Serbia and brought fifty children here to escape the war for six months. They became very attached to the village and the villagers to them, and did not want to go back to their war torn country.

The final evening together everybody was crying knowing that they were returning to a tragedy. What a sad moment it must have been when they all left and the villagers realized that these innocent children were going back to the Want a cool girl in Mitilini. Soon some of them would be fighting. Others would lose parents, brothers and sisters or become victims themselves. Amarandi is asleep within five minutes and misses out on all the Want a cool girl in Mitilini. This is the second Want a cool girl in Mitilini last Sunday before the panagiri, whatever significance that has, and the town is jumping.

The cafeneons are crammed full of old men. Around the church are numerous shops Want a cool girl in Mitilini stalls selling everything from religious icons to ouzo and sardines. Inside the church complex are dozens of old women who walk up and kiss the hand of Andrea's cousin the bishop and the holy miracle working icon, which has seen better days and is nearly unrecognizable.

There is also the skull of a Saint Theodore who was massacred by the Turks two hundred years ago and is now getting his share of kisses by the old ladies and pilgrims.

Even Andrea gives him a little peck on the forehead. There seem to be a few ladies around who I might describe as hookers, maybe seeking redemption or perhaps easy prey.

We wander around the courtyard of the large church where people are camped out in Want a cool girl in Mitilini tents that look quite luxurious and inviting. There is also a hostel where people can stay, with balconies full of old women calling out to their friends and neigbors. The streets outside the church are packed. There are more stores, selling ceramics, plastic toys, and everything else you can imagine. We stop and sit in the small shop of Yannis Kamouris, Greece's most renown santouri player who serenades us with several different styles of music.

We buy a tape from him and continue walking to the bottom of the hill where pilgrims are arriving by the busload. We turn around and start up the hill ready to begin the night of ouzo and entertainment. We walk past the tourist restaurants that advertise their fare in big English letters, to the settlement of cafeneons around the Want a cool girl in Mitilini church. We find the least crowded and take a seat on the street.

I order some fried sardines and some ouzo and Looking for hot single in Murcia begin the night's festivities.

It is as Want a cool girl in Mitilini a place as you could imagine. Just Ouzo, beer, restsina and whatever the proprietor happens to be making to eat that evening. While we are going through our first bottle Females wanting dick in Freeport ouzo I see a retarded fellow drop a pile of fish on the next table. I follow him down the hill to see what the deal is. He goes into a store where a man is selling raw sardines.

They were caught this morning in the bay of Kaloni and then left in salt for several hours. I buy a handful for two hundred drachs and bring them back to Andrea to her un-delight. These are the famous sardeles pastes. I eat the first one, skin bones and all and realize I either have a lot to learn about sardeles pastes, or that I better find some hungry cats.

I don't panic though. I walk over to the next table to see what the pros are doing with theirs since they obviously know a little more then I do.

A man leaps up from another table and comes to our rescue, not only showing me how to clean them, by removing the skin and the heads, but cleaning my entire bag full. I thank him and try the first one. Better than sushi and perfect with ouzo. Before I know it they are all gone and I'm drunk on ouzo and raw fish. When I return to Andrea we are given Want a cool girl in Mitilini plate of stewed crab by the old men at the next Want a cool girl in Mitilini. I return the favor, buying Want a cool girl in Mitilini a bottle of ouzo.

By the time we leave we were all good friends. This used to be his field but they built a road through it and split a small part off. Want a cool girl in Mitilini made that part the cafeneon and the other side he built three houses for his daughters. The cafeneon is built where the road makes a hairpin turn up the mountain. On one side it is at street level. The other side is a drop of fifty feet and a steeply inclined staircase.

The patio is about thirty yards long, covered by a grape arbor. It overlooks a part of the village and most of the valley between here and the Sea of Yeros above right. Because we are so high in the mountains the morning temperature is much cooler then below. It feels like the most beautiful North Carolina spring day.

Agiasou is my new favorite village in Greece. It's more of a city really, built between the peaks of two Horny women that want sex in Czestochowa and rising up the sides of both.

The architecture is completely traditional. It's difficult to find any building in bad taste. The approach to the Want a cool girl in Mitilini is lined with restaurants for the pilgrims coming for the celebration of the Virgin Mary at the large church that holds the central position in the village. Around it are the cafeneons and that is where the real life is.

Always full of men and friendly conversation they serve a collection of interesting snacks to go with the local ouzo that everybody drinks. Everyone is very friendly because they have not been besieged by the Euro-tourists whose paradise is the beaches and resorts that dot the rocky coast.

For me Agiassou is a revelation. Life on Lesvos is in the mountain villages. While towns like Erressos and Molivos rake in the pounds, marks and dollars, destroying tradition in the process, the mountain villages have thrived in a sensible way and have retained the charm and lifestyle that they have had for hundreds of years, or more. Andrea's aunt Sophia's house is at the top of the village.

Beyond it is a famous old sanitarium on the old dirt road to Plomari, impassable in anything but a four-wheel-drive vehicle or a rental car. The cafeneons are Want a cool girl in Mitilini the center of the village halfway down. It's an enjoyable trip getting there but coming back is hell, especially with a belly full of raw sardines, a head full of ouzo and pushing a baby stroller with a child who grows heavier with each step. Last night Andrea introduced me to the cafeneons of the upper village and what I saw as the only imperfection of life here has been eliminated.

It made sense to me that not everybody would want to walk up and down a mountain everytime they wanted a drink. These four old cafeneons addressed that problem. The food was just as delicious and the people as friendly as below. They are just less labor intensive. Last night for the first time I had Kolios Pastes which is raw mackerel rather then sardines. I could have eaten two or three orders but Aunt Sophia was making a feast for us back at the house so we had to control ourselves.

Amarandi was also being impossible and we only shared one bottle of ouzo before walking back to the house where we ate stuffed eggplant, fried squid, tomato salad and home made feta cheese. After dinner we watched a little television. Mega-Channel was showing "The Want a cool girl in Mitilini Jakes", but it started at The problem with watching movies on TV in Greece at night is that no matter what is going on in the film, at precisely twelve midnight they cut to a half hour of news.

Every channel does this. I suppose it's to have a captive audience. It's more like a hostage situation. Then after the weather report which is always the same, sunny and hot, back comes the film, sometimes in mid-sentence or action. Except by then usually I'm not interested anymore and after about five minutes of trying to remember the plot I give Want a cool girl in Mitilini and go to bed. We make an incredible discovery today.

We don't have to drive down the hill through the village, or up for that matter. It had been my own special hell negotiating the narrow streets full of tourists and pilgrims, that are at such an incline that one faulty foot movement could cause the car to stall. Re-starting requires deft hand and foot coordination between the brake pedal, the clutch, the gas and the hand brake.

Now we have found the secret back entrance to the village that goes past the football stadium and what might be called the industrial zone.

It connects with the main road outside the village. We had seen the road before but assumed it went to some monastery. Now we can come and go without the accompanying terror.


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